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The Stranding Behavior of the
Patagonia Orcas, Argentina.

“Look at the seals,” said Hector, pointing to my left side while we were sitting behind the blind across from the channel of attack. I was following the two seals movements through the 300 mm lens, I couldn't see the speeding Orca coming straight at me.

The Orca was moving so fast directly toward our position that in its powerful motion, pushing its five-ton body, the Orca created a four-foot wave around its head (looking like a submarine on course for a head-on collision). In the wake of the wave surrounding the Orca, I saw the image I had dreamed about while waiting behind the blinds during the past few weeks. One seal was caught out in the wave in the Orca’s powerful jaws. The other one just escaped!"

Every year since 1976, the arrival of Transient / Resident Orcas to the Peninsula Valdez has been observed.

The Orcas patrol along the steep pebble coastline of Punta Norte, listening to the young seals, only a few weeks old, as they play in the water or cross from one colony to the next.

Patagonia Orcas defy our common knowledge, research, observation and accepted reality about Orca behavior. All the current data is actually based on the observation and research taken place in BC, Canada in the past 20 years.

According to Roberto Bubas, the charismatic and proud Argentinean Orcas Lead Ranger - "Orcas are present all year around in Peninsula Valdez and along the coastline of Patagonia, and should therefore be considered Resident according to the BC accepted truth about Orcas. However, their feeding and social behavior here in Valdez, is just like that of the Transient Orcas off British Columbia,” said Roberto.

While it is difficult to determine what is right or different, I know that the Orcas in Peninsula Valdez put on an outstanding show of natural predation, which is called "Intentional Stranding" and it is the most extraordinary wildlife show on earth.

There are about seven adult Orcas and three juveniles split into two pods that arrive here every year, along with the old male named Mel. (Mel is about 40 years old and was a star in few of the documentaries filmed by Geographic, and the recent famed BBC Blue Planet Series.) The Orcas come here to feed by ambushing the young and inexperienced seals that are born here in January & February. The Orcas' intentional stranding happens only when the sea is relatively calm and during a period of three hours before and after high tide. The Orcas choose this time as a way of protection.

When these conditions are right, the Orcas will patrol the beach until they see or hear the right sound to launch an attack. At this time, everything moves very fast and with an awesome power that only Orcas can exhibit. For every five attempts to rush and attack the seals, only one attack is successful.

Roberto's observation in past eight years of the Valdez Orcas is priceless and he expresses great concern about the future of the intentional stranding behavior believing that we are seeing the last of this learned behavior.

Roberto indicates that although there are two known locations in the world for Orcas stranding, the behavior at Crozet Island (in the South sea, sub Antarctica, France) is remarkably different from the one in Argentina.

On Crozet Island, the Orcas are assisted by the river flowing into the sea. The river, pushing the seals in front of the waiting Orcas by the beach line, is known as "semi stranding." In Peninsula Valdez, the stranding is Intentional and you will see half or more of an Orca’s body out of the water and up on the pebble beach.

The Orcas effort to return to sea and the coordination of a seal hunt is much greater and requires several skills in order to reach acceptable success in the hunting rate.
Roberto points out that there are only three adult Orcas now that know how to hunt successfully while stranding. He warns that we may see the last of this behavior, an acquired trick that demands training and leadership.

Among the three adults, only two are proficient at it - the master, Mel and Maga. Maga is the leading female of this pod. Mel is too old (over 40 years old) to teach and he is considerably sick with a tumor on his left jaw. With his disappearance and or death, there is a good chance that this pod will disappear as well from the shores of Valdez - pushed away by other dominant pods that include active males.

The weather here is very temperamental, as it is open from all directions with its location on the edge of the continent on the Atlantic Ocean. Only by investing six to seven hours a day, everyday, will we be able to capture this phenomena on film. The action here is wild and unpredictable leaving some empty and slow moving days. This time will sharpen our observational skills and teach us not to take anything for granted.

The "stranding beach" is protected from the crowds. Many people arrive here from Argentina and around the world to observe the phenomenon. However, these observers stay on top of the cliff some 50 feet higher above the beach and 70 feet away from the shoreline.

The only way to get down to the beach is to be escorted by a local nature guard, or, Gurda Fauna. A permit is required and issued by the local government. We have already received the professional permit. We are to be escorted during the entire stay with an official that will guide us along the shore and to the photography blinds making sure that we do not disturb the seals and get too close to the incoming Orcas.

To be able to get the most out of this remarkable photography event I select to stay very close to the action in Punta Norte. There is a private, warm and rustic sheep ranch named "Laernestina" (home for 7,000 head of finest Marino sheep, on 15,000 hectors) located 5 miles away from the "stranding" beach.

Last year, the owners, the gracious Copello family lead by their young son Juan, developed a four room Bed and Breakfast that we are going to use. I will have rented a 4x4 to transport us everyday to and from the beach and at times to the nearest civilization at Piramidas some 50 miles away.

Punta Norte is a remote location on the Northern most East corner of Peninsula Valdez. There is no paved road, phone, Internet or electricity in this location. Electricity is provided at night only by a local generator. Water is brought to the ranch from a local spring.

The atmosphere around here is invigorating. The food is outstanding, particularly the fresh grilled lamb called "Asado." The world's best-known meat is from Argentina and the lamb, raised in nature and grilled by the gaucho Vitorio, is divine.

Although this is not a diving or in-water activity, photographically it is one of the most rewarding events to document. You will be faced with thousands of Magellanic penguins, extraordinary stretches of pebble beaches, an exceptionally photogenic old lighthouse set against blazing sunsets, stars, and night photography that will challenge your Imagination. You will have a new culture to explore and the environment of Punta Norte to cherish.

All photographs by Amos Nachoum. Copyright © 2002. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

TRIP ITINERARY & INFORMATION

Airline recommendations:
American or United from the US - around $800 - $900.

Tour price includes

• Fourteen days of observation of Orca Fourteen days of observation of Orca’s seal stranding behavior
• Accommodation at la Ernestina Ranch with all meals
• Travel to and from the Ranch to the Stranding Beach
• Travel to and from Puerto Madryn when conditions permit
• All required permits
• Photo coaching from Amos Nachoum

Not included in Tour Price.

• Airfare from home to Puerto Madryn, Argentina and return.
• Meals which aren’t specified above
• Overweight luggage. Drinks and taxes
• Insurance -recommended you buy your own travel , health and diving insurance
• Additional costs incurred due to independent travel arrangements
• Gratuities to the local guides

Payment Policy & Deposit:
When we receive your deposit, we will send you a comprehensive and detailed Trip Preparation Bulletin about the experience and the destination. All flights and trip costs are subject to change without prior notice until confirmed reservation.

• A non-refundable deposit of $2,950 is required to secure a space on the trip
• Full payment is due no later than 90 days before departure.
• We reserve the right to sell any space that is not paid in full by 60 days before departure.
• Refund is made if replacement was found less unrecoverable costs of sales, administration special promotion.
• Cancellation must be made in writing, 90 days before departure.
• No refund is made for unused part of the itinerary.

What to Bring Along
Warm clothes, jacket, wool socks, and long & warm underwear.  Polartec 200 weight or 300, jacket and pants. Capilene and /or silk underwear.

Travel Documents:
US citizens are required to have a valid passport and round-trip air ticket.

The following are subject to change:

• Cost of services, which are not included in the expedition price
• Changes in the local Currency Value
• Weather and water temperature and Orca behavior
• I will confirm and update whatever information humanly possible 30 days prior to departure

A general note:
Although we have reported honestly and accurately about our sightings and experiences in Peninsula Valdez, we would like to point out that we are working in the wilderness and despite all of our good intentions and utmost preparation, Mother Nature may not cooperate with us everyday to the tee, and the Orcas are not on contract with us. When we photographing in the wilderness along the shores of the sea we are not at Sea World. It is an effort of wait and see. We trust our previous experiences, and so far our record is receiving high marks. We believe that with good planning and a realistic approach, you will have a successful time witnessing (what may be a lost behavior in the future) the ultimate predator's unique seal attack on the Stranding Beach in Punta Norte, Argentina.

Information current as of January, 2008. Dates and prices may be subject to change without prior notice.

For Booking and/or further questions, contact Amos:
Phone: (415) 923-9865
Toll free: 877-229-4253
Email:

EXPEDITION PROFILE

Worldwide Orca Experience:
10 years

Where:
Peninsula Valdez.
Patagonia, Argentina

TRIPS IN 2009:
Dates: TBA
Duration: 15 Days
Cost: $8,800 per person
Max No. of Guests:
4 guests only
Availability: 4 guests

Registration:
Deposit of $2,950
Registration form

Max No. of Guests:
4 guests only
(We guarantee operating each trip with the maximum number of guests. However, when we do not have the full number of guests required, we maintain the right to add few guests on board from other sources.)

Sample roundtrip airfares to Ushuaia, Argentina:
$1130 from Miami
$1150 from NY
$1180 from LA

Facility:
Laernestina Ranch, at Punta Norte. Newly built accommodations.

Activities:
With secured permit we obtain daily access to the stranding beach. Exclusive observation from blinds, 20 feet away from the action.

Other Observations:
Seal colonies, Magellanic penguins, Wanacos (Lama subspecies), spectacular night & stars photography.

Temperature:
In Water: 55-60°F
Air Temps: 40-75° F

Dates and Information current as of April, 2008. Prices are subject to change without prior notice due to currency fluctuations. Dates may be modified due to prevailing weather conditions to enable better encounters with wildlife.

VITAL STATISTICS

Latin Name:
Orcinus orca

Length & Weight
Newborn: 7 - 8 feet
400 - 500 lbs.
Adult: 18 - 32 feet
4 - 9 tons

Lifetime:
80 Years

World Population:
Unknown

Distribution:
All oceans, particularly the Polar regions.

Behavior:
Inquisitive, fast swimmer, breaches, spyhops.

Diving:
Residents: Usually dive for 3 up to 4 minutes to 3,000ft

Transients:
Dive for 5 up to 15 minutes down to 1,000ft.

Group Size:
4 - 25 up to 50, several pods socializing.

Diet:
Residents: fish, birds & squid. Transients: seals, dolphins, whales & sharks

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Day 1:
Depart the USA from Miami or Atlanta at the PM and arrive in Buenos Aires the next day early AM.

Day 2:
Clear customs & immigration and connect with a domestic flight to Trelew or Puerto Madryn. I will be at the airport to greet you and transfer ride to Punta Norte. Settle into this charming and rustic sheep ranch La Ernestina.

Days 3 – 16:
Fourteen days of observation of Orca’s seal stranding behavior. With the permit we are granted the permission to go ashore to photograph and observe this rare activity. Every day, providing weather conditions permit, we will travel to the beach about three hours before high tide and remain there till three hours after high tide. On some days we will have the chance to observe two high tides. All meals and accommodations are provided as the La Ernestina ranch. Every few days when the schedule permits and if it is required, a trip to the nearest town of Puerto Madryn will be made. At Puerto Madryn, some 100 miles away, we will have access to services such as international phone calls and Internet connections.

Additional photography opportunities are planed after day time beach observations. Schedule depend on time of returning from shore.

Day 17:
Early departure from la Ernestina and drive to Puerto Madryn or Trelew catch the flight to Buenos Aires and connect with the international flight to the USA or Europe at the PM.