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The Stranding Behavior of the
Patagonia Orcas, Argentina.
Look at the seals,” said Hector, pointing
to my left side while we were sitting behind the blind across from
the channel of attack. I was following the two seals movements through
the 300 mm lens, I couldn't see the speeding Orca coming straight
at me.
The Orca was moving so fast directly toward our position
that in its powerful motion, pushing its five-ton body, the Orca
created a four-foot wave around its head (looking like a submarine
on course for a head-on collision). In the wake of the wave surrounding
the Orca, I saw the image I had dreamed about while waiting behind
the blinds during the past few weeks. One seal was caught out in
the wave in the Orca’s powerful jaws. The other one just escaped!"
Every year since 1976, the arrival of Transient /
Resident Orcas to the Peninsula Valdez has been observed.
The Orcas patrol along the steep pebble coastline
of Punta Norte, listening to the young seals, only a few weeks old,
as they play in the water or cross from one colony to the next.
Patagonia Orcas defy our common knowledge, research,
observation and accepted reality about Orca behavior. All the current
data is actually based on the observation and research taken place
in BC, Canada in the past 20 years.
According to Roberto Bubas, the charismatic and proud
Argentinean Orcas Lead Ranger - "Orcas are present all year
around in Peninsula Valdez and along the coastline of Patagonia,
and should therefore be considered Resident according to the BC
accepted truth about Orcas. However, their feeding and social behavior
here in Valdez, is just like that of the Transient Orcas off British
Columbia,” said Roberto.
While it is difficult to determine what is right or
different, I know that the Orcas in Peninsula Valdez put on an outstanding
show of natural predation, which is called "Intentional Stranding"
and it is the most extraordinary wildlife show on earth.
There
are about seven adult Orcas and three juveniles split into two pods
that arrive here every year, along with the old male named Mel.
(Mel is about 40 years old and was a star in few of the documentaries
filmed by Geographic, and the recent famed BBC Blue Planet Series.)
The Orcas come here to feed by ambushing the young and inexperienced
seals that are born here in January & February. The Orcas' intentional
stranding happens only when the sea is relatively calm and during
a period of three hours before and after high tide. The Orcas choose
this time as a way of protection.
When these conditions are right, the Orcas will patrol
the beach until they see or hear the right sound to launch an attack.
At this time, everything moves very fast and with an awesome power
that only Orcas can exhibit. For every five attempts to rush and
attack the seals, only one attack is successful.
Roberto's observation in past eight years of the Valdez
Orcas is priceless and he expresses great concern about the future
of the intentional stranding behavior believing that we are seeing
the last of this learned behavior.
Roberto
indicates that although there are two known locations in the world
for Orcas stranding, the behavior at Crozet Island (in the South
sea, sub Antarctica, France) is remarkably different from the one
in Argentina.
On Crozet Island, the Orcas are assisted by the river
flowing into the sea. The river, pushing the seals in front of the
waiting Orcas by the beach line, is known as "semi stranding."
In Peninsula Valdez, the stranding is Intentional and you will see
half or more of an Orca’s body out of the water and up on
the pebble beach.
The
Orcas effort to return to sea and the coordination of a seal hunt
is much greater and requires several skills in order to reach acceptable
success in the hunting rate.
Roberto points out that there are only three adult Orcas now that
know how to hunt successfully while stranding. He warns that we
may see the last of this behavior, an acquired trick that demands
training and leadership.
Among the three adults, only two are proficient at
it - the master, Mel and Maga. Maga is the leading female of this
pod. Mel is too old (over 40 years old) to teach and he is considerably
sick with a tumor on his left jaw. With his disappearance and or
death, there is a good chance that this pod will disappear as well
from the shores of Valdez - pushed away by other dominant pods that
include active males.
The weather here is very temperamental, as it
is open from all directions with its location on the edge of the
continent on the Atlantic Ocean. Only by investing six to seven
hours a day, everyday, will we be able to capture this phenomena
on film. The action here is wild and unpredictable leaving some
empty and slow moving days. This time will sharpen our observational
skills and teach us not to take anything for granted.
The
"stranding beach" is protected from the crowds. Many people
arrive here from Argentina and around the world to observe the phenomenon.
However, these observers stay on top of the cliff some 50 feet higher
above the beach and 70 feet away from the shoreline.
The only way to get down to the beach is to be escorted
by a local nature guard, or, Gurda Fauna. A permit is required and
issued by the local government. We have already received the professional
permit. We are to be escorted during the entire stay with an official
that will guide us along the shore and to the photography blinds
making sure that we do not disturb the seals and get too close to
the incoming Orcas.
To be able to get the most out of this remarkable
photography event I select to stay very close to the action in Punta
Norte. There is a private, warm and rustic sheep ranch named "Laernestina"
(home for 7,000 head of finest Marino sheep, on 15,000 hectors)
located 5 miles away from the "stranding" beach.
Last year, the owners, the gracious Copello family
lead by their young son Juan, developed a four room Bed and Breakfast
that we are going to use. I will have rented a 4x4 to transport
us everyday to and from the beach and at times to the nearest civilization
at Piramidas some 50 miles away.
Punta Norte is a remote location on the Northern most
East corner of Peninsula Valdez. There is no paved road, phone,
Internet or electricity in this location. Electricity is provided
at night only by a local generator. Water is brought to the ranch
from a local spring.
The atmosphere around here is invigorating. The food
is outstanding, particularly the fresh grilled lamb called "Asado."
The world's best-known meat is from Argentina and the lamb, raised
in nature and grilled by the gaucho Vitorio, is divine.
Although this is not a diving or in-water activity,
photographically it is one of the most rewarding events to document.
You will be faced with thousands of Magellanic penguins, extraordinary
stretches of pebble beaches, an exceptionally photogenic old lighthouse
set against blazing sunsets, stars, and night photography that will
challenge your Imagination. You will have a new culture to explore
and the environment of Punta Norte to cherish.

Ready to join us on our next trip?
Reserve your space as soon
as possible for 2007. Spaces are going fast!
If you know someone who'd like
to photograph orcas in Argentina, you can email
this link to them.
All photographs by Amos Nachoum. Copyright ©
2002. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly
prohibited.
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